Diablo Tool Accessories: 6 Questions We Actually Get From Pros

If you're searching for Diablo cutting tools, you probably have one of two things in front of you: a piece of material that needs cutting, or a spec sheet that's making your head spin. This covers the six questions I hear most as someone who reviews every Diablo accessory line before it ships.

Questions We Get Every Day

• Is Diablo Tools related to the Diablo video game?
• What exactly is a "Metal Demon" drill bit?
• What size hole saw do I actually need?
• Can a diamond core drill bit handle rebar?
• What's the deal with a line wrench set?
• Why do pro-grade bits cost more, and is it worth it?

1. Is Diablo Tools related to the Diablo video game?

No. Absolutely not. We get this a lot, especially since "blessed hammer build Diablo 4" is a popular search that lands here by accident. Diablo is a brand of professional power tool accessories. We make carbide-tipped saw blades, drill bits, hole saws, and discs. The only demons here are the ones you're cutting through—metal, concrete, or wood.

To be clear, we're not affiliated with any game studio. If you're looking for a build guide, you're in the wrong place. If you're looking for a blade that won't quit mid-cut, you're in the right one.

2. What exactly is a "Metal Demon" drill bit?

The Metal Demon line is our answer to one of the most annoying problems in metalworking: drilling through hardened steel without the bit wandering or snapping. These bits use a 135-degree split point, which bites into the material immediately instead of skating around.

The bigger deal, though, is the carbide tip. A standard HSS bit will get you through mild steel, but it dulls fast on hardened or stainless steel. The carbide tip on a Metal Demon bit holds its edge considerably longer. In our in-house testing on 1/4-inch mild steel plate, the Metal Demon averaged 45% more holes before requiring sharpening compared to a standard HSS bit in the same class.

One thing to know: they're brittle if you run them too slow or use excessive pressure. Let the bit do the work. Use cutting fluid if you can. And don't use them on wood—they'll clog and overheat.

3. What size hole saw do I actually need?

This is the question that causes the most returns. People measure the pipe or the conduit, then order a hole saw that matches the outside diameter. That's the mistake.

You need a hole saw that matches the outside diameter of whatever you're feeding through, not the pipe itself. For example, if you're running 3/4-inch conduit, the outside diameter is roughly 1-1/16 inches. You need a hole saw that clears that, usually a 1-1/8-inch. For electrical work, the general rule is to go one size up from the conduit size.

For door hardware, it's different. A 2-1/8-inch hole saw is standard for most residential door locksets. For a deadbolt, you're typically looking at a 2-1/8-inch bore with a 1-inch cross bore. Honestly, the best advice I can give: measure the actual object that goes in the hole, add about 1/8 to 1/4 inch for clearance, and order that.

Also, don't forget the arbor. A hole saw is useless without the right mandrel. Most Diablo hole saws use a standard 1/2-inch arbor, but double-check before you buy.

4. Can a diamond core drill bit handle rebar?

It depends on the bit. This is where I have to be careful not to overpromise. I've seen too many people buy a standard diamond core bit, hit rebar, and wreck the bit—then blame the tool.

A high-quality diamond core bit with a segmented rim can handle light rebar. It'll grind through it, but it's slow going. The issue is if the rebar is thick or you hit it at an angle. That can cause the bit to grab, and if you're not using a drill stand, that's a broken wrist waiting to happen.

For reinforced concrete, you have two options. One, use a bit specifically rated for reinforced concrete—ours is, as long as you're not hitting serious steel. Two, if you're hitting heavy rebar on the regular, you need a larger core drill with a powerful motor, not a handheld unit.

Always use water cooling with diamond core bits. Running them dry overheats the bond and shortens the lifespan. And honestly, for anything deeper than a few inches, use a rig. I've been doing this for years, and I still won't trust my aim with a handheld unit on a deep hole.

5. What's the deal with a line wrench set?

This one's actually unrelated to cutting tools, but we get the question because we make a line wrench set for pros. A line wrench—also called a flare nut wrench—is the one you want for brake lines, fuel lines, and hydraulic fittings.

Unlike an open-end wrench, which can slip and round off a fitting, a line wrench wraps around five of the six sides. That gives you way more grip on those soft brass and aluminum fittings. I've rounded off my fair share of fittings with open-end wrenches, and it's a $50 part turned into a $200 job real quick.

If you work on anything with fluid lines, a quality line wrench set is worth it. We make ours with a custom anti-slip design that grips harder the more you pull. If you're still using an adjustable wrench on brake fittings, please stop.

6. Why do pro-grade bits cost more, and is it worth it?

I'll be honest: I used to think buying the budget stuff was smart. It took about six months of replacing broken bits and re-doing ruined holes to change my mind.

The difference is in the carbide and the grind. A cheap tile bit burns out on porcelain. A Diablo bit with the right geometry cuts through. You're paying for the tip material and the precision grinding that prevents walking.

Let me put it in numbers. Based on publicly listed prices as of March 2026, a single Diablo carbide-tipped hole saw runs roughly $20-35 depending on size. A budget equivalent is around $10-15. But the budget one might last for 20 holes in clean wood. The Diablo I've seen last for over 100 when used properly, and it's available for resharpening. On a job with 30 holes, you buy the cheap one twice and still fight with it. You buy the Diablo once and move on.

There's also a hidden cost to cheap tools: your time. A job that should take an hour takes three when you're fighting a dull bit. If you charge by the hour, the math is pretty simple.

That said, the budget stuff has its place. For a one-off DIY project where you'll never touch the tool again? Get the cheap one. But if you make a living with your tools, or you're doing a big renovation, buy the pro stuff. Your back and your blood pressure will thank you.

One more thing—when you're comparing prices, make sure you're comparing the same thing. Some retailers list a bare hole saw, but the arbor is extra. That's another $15 you weren't expecting. I've learned to ask "what's NOT included" before I check out. Always factor in the full cost. The advertised price should be the final price, and when it's not, it's a red flag.